Four elements to keeping your plants healthy and happy
WATERING is one of the most important aspects of succeeding with Tillandsias, and one of the most misunderstood. These plants need water just as all plants, but in a different manner. Some Tillandsias have roots but their use is not for taking up water, their only pupose is for holding on to a host source such as trees, rocks etc. They are Epiphytes and take all their nourishment through their leaves.
Tillandsias can only absorb water on their leaves, in nature through dew, fog and rain. Humidity is not a factor in watering as it only delays the drying process. Tillandsias are covered in suction scales (trichomes) which capture moisture, these scales automatically close when your plant has enough moisture. Get to know your plant, handle the leaves. The leaves will feel brittle and be lighter in color when in need of water.
Regular tap water, bottled water or rain water are fine, but artificially softened water has too much sodium (salt) and NEVER use distilled water.
Your plant should be watered every 10-14 days. More often in dry hot spells. Misting is recommended but is generally not recommended as the sole way to water, even if done daily. The leaves need to be thoroughly drenched to get underneath as well as on top to the point of runoff as though they've just gone through a rain storm. The easiest way to achieve this is to actually immerse the whole plant in the sink or appropriate sized container, if not, use a hose or the kitchen faucet to totally wet your plant. Your plant will also appreciate a good soaking for 30 minutes every few weeks. Shake off any excess water from your plant and place upside down right after watering to remove extra water that might collect at the base as your plant to deter rotting. They need to dry out within four (4) hours or by nightfall. You can give thin leaf varieties an extra spray on their tips as they dry out faster. After each watering they must have good air circulation, not sitting in a puddle of water as they will rot. Another option you can do is to set your plants out in the rain for a nice natural soaking.
- Watering
- Light
- Temperature
- Air
WATERING is one of the most important aspects of succeeding with Tillandsias, and one of the most misunderstood. These plants need water just as all plants, but in a different manner. Some Tillandsias have roots but their use is not for taking up water, their only pupose is for holding on to a host source such as trees, rocks etc. They are Epiphytes and take all their nourishment through their leaves.
Tillandsias can only absorb water on their leaves, in nature through dew, fog and rain. Humidity is not a factor in watering as it only delays the drying process. Tillandsias are covered in suction scales (trichomes) which capture moisture, these scales automatically close when your plant has enough moisture. Get to know your plant, handle the leaves. The leaves will feel brittle and be lighter in color when in need of water.
Regular tap water, bottled water or rain water are fine, but artificially softened water has too much sodium (salt) and NEVER use distilled water.
Your plant should be watered every 10-14 days. More often in dry hot spells. Misting is recommended but is generally not recommended as the sole way to water, even if done daily. The leaves need to be thoroughly drenched to get underneath as well as on top to the point of runoff as though they've just gone through a rain storm. The easiest way to achieve this is to actually immerse the whole plant in the sink or appropriate sized container, if not, use a hose or the kitchen faucet to totally wet your plant. Your plant will also appreciate a good soaking for 30 minutes every few weeks. Shake off any excess water from your plant and place upside down right after watering to remove extra water that might collect at the base as your plant to deter rotting. They need to dry out within four (4) hours or by nightfall. You can give thin leaf varieties an extra spray on their tips as they dry out faster. After each watering they must have good air circulation, not sitting in a puddle of water as they will rot. Another option you can do is to set your plants out in the rain for a nice natural soaking.
An exception to the total submerging and soaking rule is the bulb type Tillies like the Seleriana shown at left. The entire plant should not be left to soak in water. Soaking just the tips and running the bulb end under water or a quick whole plant dunk and then laying on its side, or upside down so all water can drain off will keep the plant from rotting. Regular misting is recommended.
LIGHTING is the second most important factor in growing a strong healthy plant. Bright indirect or filtered light.
Give your plant as bright a light as you can, without placing in direct sunlight, even indoors. A rule of thumb is no further than 10 feet from a window or skylight. In summer outdoors under a tree, carport, patio or shade cloth would be ideal.
Do not place directly in south facing windows, or outside in direct sun as the amplified heat will cause excessive drying of the plant and burning. In Office environments, fluorescent lighting will normally provide the proper color range for good plant growth, but the light needs to be at least 1 - 2 feet from the plants to be effective.
OPTIMUM TEMPERATURE range for Tillandsia is 50° - 90° degrees.
I have kept my plants outside in a covered area during 40° degree weather but only for a night or two knowing it would be warm during the day. Tillandsia will die with frost.
AIR CIRCULATION is important following each watering. Tillandsias should be given enough light and air circulation to dry within 4 hours or less. Do not keep plants constantly wet or moist.
Do not allow to dry too quickly though. 1-3 hours is optimum.
Give your plant as bright a light as you can, without placing in direct sunlight, even indoors. A rule of thumb is no further than 10 feet from a window or skylight. In summer outdoors under a tree, carport, patio or shade cloth would be ideal.
Do not place directly in south facing windows, or outside in direct sun as the amplified heat will cause excessive drying of the plant and burning. In Office environments, fluorescent lighting will normally provide the proper color range for good plant growth, but the light needs to be at least 1 - 2 feet from the plants to be effective.
OPTIMUM TEMPERATURE range for Tillandsia is 50° - 90° degrees.
I have kept my plants outside in a covered area during 40° degree weather but only for a night or two knowing it would be warm during the day. Tillandsia will die with frost.
AIR CIRCULATION is important following each watering. Tillandsias should be given enough light and air circulation to dry within 4 hours or less. Do not keep plants constantly wet or moist.
Do not allow to dry too quickly though. 1-3 hours is optimum.
BLOOMING and GROWTH CYCLE
Bromeliad Tillandsia have a life cycle of one plant growing to maturity and blooming. Before, during or after blooming (depending on the species) your plant will start producing young (PUPS), most plants will produce between 2 - 8 pups. Each plant will flower once in its lifetime, remember that each pup is a plant and it will bloom. Flowers can last from several days to many months, depending on the species, and different species bloom at different times depending also on its care and environment. You can expect blooms from mid winter through mid summer depending on the plant.
For blooms to last longer, when watering avoid soaking the bloom for long periods.
If you leave your plant to clump just remove the leaves of the mother plant as she starts to dry up, just pull the leaves out with a gentle sideways tug, if the leaf resists, its not dead yet, so just trim any dried areas instead. Once you've fully removed the mother plant, the gap that's left will quickly be filled in by the other plants growing & spreading.
REMOVING AIR PLANT PUPS
To remove the pups, they should be at least 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the mother plant. Hold both mother and pup at their bases and gently twist in a downward motion. If this does not happen easily, you may need to remove the pup by cutting downward as close to the mother as possible. Do not discard the mother plant yet, as long as she is still alive she will continue to produce more pups for you. Often taking several years after blooming before she finally dies.
Bromeliad Tillandsia have a life cycle of one plant growing to maturity and blooming. Before, during or after blooming (depending on the species) your plant will start producing young (PUPS), most plants will produce between 2 - 8 pups. Each plant will flower once in its lifetime, remember that each pup is a plant and it will bloom. Flowers can last from several days to many months, depending on the species, and different species bloom at different times depending also on its care and environment. You can expect blooms from mid winter through mid summer depending on the plant.
For blooms to last longer, when watering avoid soaking the bloom for long periods.
If you leave your plant to clump just remove the leaves of the mother plant as she starts to dry up, just pull the leaves out with a gentle sideways tug, if the leaf resists, its not dead yet, so just trim any dried areas instead. Once you've fully removed the mother plant, the gap that's left will quickly be filled in by the other plants growing & spreading.
REMOVING AIR PLANT PUPS
To remove the pups, they should be at least 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the mother plant. Hold both mother and pup at their bases and gently twist in a downward motion. If this does not happen easily, you may need to remove the pup by cutting downward as close to the mother as possible. Do not discard the mother plant yet, as long as she is still alive she will continue to produce more pups for you. Often taking several years after blooming before she finally dies.